Great California Trip: Part 2

10 10 2008

Tony Coturri

Tony Coturri

Every time we go to Northern California, I get the same question. Did you see any wineries while you were up there?  I don’t mean to sound jaded, but after all the trips, and all the winery visits, the whole thing gets kind of old. Unless you really go off the beaten track, all tasting rooms start to look alike. 
But one place that never gets old for us is a visit to the Coturri Winery in Glen Ellen. This is like no winery you’ve been to before — no parking lot, no tasting room, no gift shop and, in fact, not open to the public. Even for us, after several visits, finding the place can be a challenge.   No signage, a gate with four other addresses on it — just two howling dogs of indescribable origin to greet any car pulling up the long dusty driveway. The winery buildings consist of Tony Coturri’s house and something that resembles a garage, which is actually where the wine is made and stored.  It’s great. 
I called Tony to see if he had some time, and he invited us up for a Sunday lunch. He said he was having a few folks over. What we didn’t know was that the folks were about 20 pickers who were slaving away in the vineyard as we pulled up. At the house, Tony’s son Nic was preparing lunch with the help of a young woman who used to work at Chez Panisse. This was a very good sign. Tony immediately handed us two glasses glass of his first-ever (and outstanding!) rosé, while the guys and gals were wrapping up the morning’s work. Then the steaks were thrown on a open pit barbeque, and one ridiculously spectacular dish after another was laid out for the hard working crew. I gotta say, if there’s a wine heaven, it should be built on these specs. Gloriously sunny 85 degree day, food and wine fit for a king or queen, and exceptionally good, nice people. After lunch we waddled across the driveway to sample some new vintages, one better than the next. So good that I couldn’t resist buying a mixed case to bring back to the in-laws in Marin. If you’re at all into wines that taste really like the real deal, i.e. organic, biodynamic, un-messed with, true terroir, then these wines are for you. 
As we hopped into our fire engine red Mustang convertible rental and drove off, Ellen and I couldn’t help but look at each other and grin from ear to ear. Now that’s how to “do the wineries” in Northern California.





Great California Trip: Part 1

4 10 2008

Now that everyone’s back from their summer vacations, it’s time for guys like me to disappear and take mine. So Ellen and I hightailed it to Northern California for a visit with friends and family. It started out humorously enough with a visit to Kermit Lynch’s wine mecca in Berkeley.  Hey, it was on the way from the airport to my brother-in-law’s house, and I’d never been, so why not? We had just walked in and started browsing when Clark offered to help us. I thanked him and told him I was in the same business, and would holler if I needed any help. He looked at me and said, “Hey, you’re the Wine Guy!”  Boy, did that make the trip right there, and we’d only been on the ground about an hour. It turned out Clark had been in my store a couple of years ago. Anyway, good for the ego and a great story for the realtives. Ah, fame. Yea, right. Alice Feiring had been at Kermit Lynch the night before doing her book thing to a big crowd, and then they took her to dinner at Chez Panisse.  Now that’s fame.

The next day we made a special trip from Marin into S.F. to check out Terroir, an all-organic wine bar. Fantastic. The wine selections were out-of-this-world, and we spent a great deal of time speaking with Guillaume and Dagan (two of the owners) over a knockout plate of cheeses and salamis, along with a number of glasses of their choices of the day. Our idea of heaven.  A standout was a red Rhone from Domaine de Gramenon. Wow! We bought a bottle (among others) to take back with us to bro-in-law’s house to enjoy again later that night. Le Gramenon is the wine, and it’s stellar. Coincidentally, it’s a Kermit Lynch selection. All in all a great first 48 hours in a beautiful part of the world. More West Coast wine adventures to come…








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