West Side Wine

Tony, Francois Ecot, and Olivier

Sometimes I can get so all-consumed with the travails of having a store and running a retail business (read My Korean Deli), that I lose sight of the real joys of being in the wine business. This week was a wonderful reminder of that, as Ellen and I joined a “summit” of two biodynamic winemakers, one from France the other from California, atop Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen, California. At Coturri Winery, Tony Coturri and Olivier Cousin (from Anjou in the Loire Valley) spent the week getting to know each other while sharing their perspectives and knowledge of the art of growing grapes and making natural wines (despite the language barrier.) A genuine bond and friendship was formed between two very like personalities. It was a joy to watch, and I was proud to have had a hand in making this happen.

The real fun began with the roasting of a pig and a feast to match all feasts (thank you Charlene), joined by vintage Coturri masterpieces brought out from the depths of his cave, including a 1964 (that’s 47 years ago, folks) Petit Syrah that was one of the first wines Tony and his dad made together. It was vibrant, lively and simply fantastic. Tony was showing off, as well he should, and it was a pleasure to be the beneficiary of his prowess. Ellen and I were reminded of a similar experience at Olivier’s home a few years ago, when he opened a 1959 Cabernet Franc that was his grandfather’s final vintage. We love it that winemaker’s love to show off.

Charlene making magic while Nic "helps"

Anyway, the visit ended with hugs, double kisses and promises of “let’s do this at my place in France”.  Ah, yes. The day to day headaches of a business are always there, but it only takes one unforgettable evening to make them all go away.  Thanks and merci Tony and Olvier.  A bientot!

The Terrier Family at Rouge Tomate

You know that feeling, when you think you’re at the top of your game. You’ve honed your skills and your confidence is at its all-time high. Then you discover someone who makes you feel like you’re amateur night. You think you’re a good writer, then you read Jonathan Franzen or Ian McEwan. You think you’re getting to be pretty good at photography, and you discover Ansel Adams or Henri Cartier-Bresson. Good at the piano?  Brubeck will bury you.

Well my bubble burst yesterday when I reconnected with Pascaline Lepeltier, the sommelier at Rouge Tomate. Not only is she personable and normal (I have that part kind of that down) but she has the most extraordinary palate and wine knowledge known to man (or woman.)

We had the privilege of being taken to lunch at Rouge Tomate by winemakers Magali and Dominique Terrier of the wonderful Deux Anes in Corbiere, who we housed for a week while they were here with their two adorable sons, Leo and Jules. for natural winemakers’ week. Pascaline is good friends with them, and she immediately took over as our host. I couldn’t wait to revisit her wine list, as she is considered one of the great sommeliers in the world. I was gratified that not only did I recognize a lot of the wines, but I also sell a good number of them at WSW.

But as we spoke and I got to know her better, I realized that I am no Franzen or Bresson or Brubeck. Pascaline not only lives wine, she has that “gift” that few are given for their chosen field. And no matter how hard I study and how much I learn, I don’t know that I’ll ever be a Pascaline.

But that’s the fun of it. You never know.